Cycling in the Crete senesi

Siena is the gateway to an area of Tuscany which is a harmonious marriage of nature and history, and this tour of the most significant points of the Crete Senesi begins at the city of the Palio. Travelling by bike (perhaps the best way to visit the gentle hills of one of the most beautiful stretches of countryside in the world), we will explore the Crete Senesi in the Valdorcia, an area whose name - creta means 'clay' - is a sign of its vocation for producing terracotta, which is also widely used as a building material in the beautiful hilltop towns of the area.
There is a long and established tradition of producing terracotta in the area that takes in Asciano, Trequanda and the important centre of Sinalunga. Massive oil jars and plant pots are still fired using the 18th-century serpente method, and here you can find modern factories and traditional artisan workshops side by side. Tradition and modernity coexist in an enchanting landscape. And in this environment of rounded clay hillocks and gullies, of beautiful roads and country houses, tradition and modernity both play a part in the production of fine wines.

Wine has been enjoyed and appreciated since ancient times and one could cite many hundreds of references to the nectar of the Gods. The Etruscans are known to have produced it, as did the Romans. In the Middle Ages, wine was very expensive because the barrels it was transported in along rough tracks and roads often broke during the journey. In the Renaissance period it was largely a prerogative of the rich. Only in the last few centuries has it become more freely available for everyone, though ironically its popularity seems to be waning among young people, who tend to prefer beer or other gassy drinks. But wine remains the ideal accompaniment for the culinary specialities of the Western world. As everyone knows, Italy can boast many fine wines and Tuscany is one of the foremost regions in the country for wine production.

Brunello di Montalcino, red wine par excellence and an essential feature of any self-respecting banquet or ceremony, is produced and aged in the Valdorcia. Vines occupy about 1300 hectares of land, and the 135-odd wineries working in the area produce approximately 4 million bottles a year. Apart from this famous wine, Rosso di Montalcino, Moscatello and other fine wines are also produced. All this has given rise to a flourishing wine tourism and we think that to enjoy the area to the full the best way to visit it is by the most ecological of all means of transport - mountain bike. Cycling along the unpaved roads that rise and fall over the undulating hills, you can enjoy this corner of paradise with the calm that it deserves. Gazing out to the horizon your eye can drink in and linger over the fantastic, continually-changing views. And then, in the evening, the numerous agriturismi of the area will welcome you Tuscan-style… with pappardelle sulla lepre and a glass or two of good wine.

Text and pictures Gianfranco Bracci
Translation: Jeremy Carden